Wednesday, July 2, 2008

safari ya kenya :: Day 4 :: in Mombasa

Sunday, June 15

It's Sunday. We found a place that actually serves breakfast before 9:30 a.m. Then we went to church. Very enthusiastic singing, dancing, and preaching.

During testimony time, Rodgers introduced me as the woman he loves and wants to marry. The ladies went crazy. It was awesome.

The service was very long, as usual. About 1:45, Benson, who was responsible for looking after me today, said, "Let's go get some lunch." So we went down to a little restaurant and I had pilau - rice and beef. When we got back, there were meetings in progress. We stayed for the youth fellowship (youth = single adults). They were planning what they were going to wear to a wedding in August. Then Rodgers sent us away.

Ben, Hope, and I came back to my hotel and watched TV for a few hours. Then Rod called us finally, after 6:00 and asked us to meet him for supper.

Tomorrow, we go to Malindi and the country. My hotel offered to let me keep some stuff here. So I will just take my messeger bag to the country with me. The lighter we pack for this safari, the better.

safari ya kenya :: Day 5 :: in Mombasa and Marereni

Monday, June 16

The day began with lots of rain. We met Beaty for breakfast at Little Chef, where we had breakfast and supper yesterday.

We planned to meet at 8:00, but we were about 30 minutes early. Because of the rain, she had trouble getting a matatu and was 30 minutes late, but it was fine.

After breakfast, we went to email Mom to get her to send us her measurements for a dress. Then we went to the market to buy some fabric. We got very nice African looking fabric for about $2.50/yard.

Then Rod and I got in a matatu bound for Malindi. The road was not as rough as I expected. From Malindi we took another matatu to Marereni. On the way, Rod pointed out the way he would go to go home and salt farms.

Rod's sister Halima had her third child this weekend. So Mama Esther is here with them in Marereni. She will be her until the baby is 7 weeks old. [edit: I really thought that's what Rod told me. Actually she only stayed 1 week.] Because of that and the rain, we won't go to the country house today like we planned. We are staying in a little hotel tonight at least. There is no A/C, probably no hot water, and the power lines fell during the rain, so we are powered by generators only at night. But there is a toilet, sink, shower, Ricky and Lucy style beds, a TV with 2 channels, mosquito nets, an oscillating fan, a table and chairs on the porch, and chai brought to said table at 8:30 tomorrow morning. Being that I was geared up for the country and peeing on the ground, it is plenty luxurious for me.


Each bed had a sheet over the foam mattress, a blue sheet to cover up with, an orange towel, 2 weird foam pillows

Jefwa (Katoto), Rod's brother-in-law, met us when we got off the matatu, and brought us to the hotel. We put our stuff down and went to his house, to meet Halima and Mama Esther. Rod hugs everyone in the U.S. but not in Kenya. He just shook hands with his mom.

It was 2:00 and we hadn't eaten since 8:30. So Halima brought us some ugali, fish, and prawns, followed by mango and chai. We ate and Katoto's mom showed up. A big discussion ensued regarding the name of the new baby. Not a great thing for having any quality time with Mama Esther. So we came to the hotel for naps. I think we slept for over an hour. Then we sat on the porch until Katoto came to get us for dinner, which was very good nyama and rice, bananas and mango. We spent some time talking after dinner.

I can't talk to Rod's mom, and like most Kenyans, she is very shy with me. Typically Kenyans will kind of clam up when I'm around. They'll talk to Rod some, but don't really even attempt to use him as an interpreter to talk to me through him. It's frustrating, and I don't know what to do. But she did get very excited when Rod told me how to tell her "sleep well" in Giriama.


This was actually the morning of Day 6. Mama Esther, Halima (Rod's sister) and me

Halima took Mama Esther's measurements and we called Beaty to give them to her for making the dress. Mom and Mama Esther will have matching dresses. The fabric is the same print with different color schemes.

safari ya kenya :: Day 6 :: in Marereni and Malindi

Tuesday, June 17



Today we had breakfast on our porch. Then we went back to Halima's house and said goodbye to Mama Esther. We had a short conversation, interpreted by Rod.

As we left, we stopped by Joyce's store. She was so excited to see Rod! He actually did hug her. Halima prodded Rod to buy several things, for her, Mama, her daughter, and me.

We finally got out of the store and went to wait for a matatu to take us to Malindi. Katoto went with us. He seemed to wait for a driver he knew (he is also a matatu driver) so he could have a free ride. It was a long ridiculous wait, pointless for Rod and me.

In Malindi, Francis met us at the bus station, took us to a hotel where we could stay - you can get a single room with a view of the Indian Ocean for $10/night. The one he took us to is not near the ocean, but they serve breakfast for no extra charge.

We had lunch at Francis' house, under a mango tree. Then he took us to check email. I got Mom's measurements and we passed them on to Beaty. She had already finished Mama Esther's dress!

We stopped in a Safari place to see what a Safari would cost. There is a big park nearby - Tsavo East and Tsavo West - where safari tours go. But a 1 night / 2 day trip cost 25,000 KSHS. We don't have that much money.

Rod's nephew Moses works near that safari office and internet place. So we sat at a nearby cafe and drank sodas with him and Francis. They all went to Mombasa Baptist High School together. Moses was one year behind Francis and Rod.

We missed naptime, so we got some take out from that cafe (which is little black plastic bags of food) and went to our hotel to have a nice easy evening.

safari ya kenya :: Day 7 :: in Malindi

Wednesday, June 18

We checked out of the hotel this morning and got on a bus that would take us to Kambi ya Waya, where we would then walk to the house in the country. Rod kept trying to call Wilson (his older brother) to see if he was home, but couldn't get him. The bus hadn't left yet, so we just got off.

We decided to check in to another hotel and found one on the beach - still about $10 for a single room for one night. Our tuk-tuk driver waited for us, then took us to Malindi Marine Park. We didn't know what it was, but apparently it's mostly for snorkeling. We didn't have our swimsuits, so we just walked along the beach, then sat in some shade talking until we got hungry for lunch.


From my hotel window

After lunch we took naps. I checked on Rod after a while, and he was sleeping so soundly. I woke him up accidentally, but he couldn't stay awake. I thought he would sleep all day. Finally he did wake up though, and we took a walk, checked out an even more expensive safari place, and checked email again.


In the pub on the ground floor of our hotel

Beaty called to ask for Rod's youngest sisters' measurements - Khadija and Chorus, who are in high school. I guess she's also finished Mom's dress now.

After checking emails, Rod called Moses and Francis again. They came and drank tea with us in the same cafe as yesterday until it was almost dark. Moses had permission from his wife to stay there at the cafe with us as long as he wanted, but his vehicle (which I think was a motorcycle or a scooter) didn't have working headlights, so he had to leave before 7 when it gets dark.

We walked back to our hotel. It's a full moon, or close to it, and the moon reflected on the ocean. It was beautiful and romantic. So we walked back to the hotel along the sidewalk next to the beach, watching the moon and holding hands.

We had dinner in the hotel's pub. I was thinking of curry and the waiter said one of the curries was the best - his favorite food on the menu. So I had that. It was unlike any curry I've had before.

We did eventually hear from Wilson. He was going to a funeral for one of their uncles' grandmothers. The funeral is tomorrow. So there will be no one at home in the country. We'll probably go back to Mombasa.

safari ya kenya :: Day 8 :: in Malindi and Mombasa

Thursday, June 19

We thought about going to the country again this morning, and returning to Mombasa in the evening. But when we got to the bus station and surveyed the incoming clouds, we changed our plans and went straight to Mombasa.

Loading a bus is a complex process in Kenya. The bus won't leave until it's full. And a large number of people don't want to get on until the bus is leaving. Every so often, the bus will begin rolling forward in hopes that people will think it's leaving so they'll get on. Eventually, the bus will reach the end of the parking lot and back up into its original position. Just before the bus actually leaves, there will be a rush of people getting on. These people have been just hanging around the bus station, refusing to board a bus or matatu. They seem to all suddenly decide to take this bus after all, and the bus is finally able to leave, not on schedule because it was waiting till it was full to leave. It was a long bus ride to Mombasa, and once we got here, we were both dying to stand up and move around. We had lunch a bit before 2, as soon as we were off the bus. Then we checked out a couple of hotels that are farther away from the mosque than the hotel I had been staying in. But they were not very nice, and I'm spoiled. So I came back to my very nice hotel with a 5 a.m. wake up call to prayer. The other hotels seemed like they were nice when they were built, but no maintenance has been done on the facilities at all, i.e. broken toilet seats are not replaced, missing knobs for the shower are not replaced, it still has the original coat of paint that is now peeling off...


This picture was taken from the bus that took us back to Mombasa (that's why I'm higher up than the matatu)

In the afternoon, we went shopping for some souvenirs. Rod told them that I am his wife / I belong here / am not going anywhere / and not a tourist so that they wouldn't insist on charging me the tourist price. After seeing everything that was there, I decided what I wanted and made Rod a list to go back and bargain/haggle some good prices for me. He loves that. He got me some good stuff, too. While he was doing that, I wrote some post cards. Then we had dinner, watched TV, and called it a day.